Baan Chang Elephant Park: Playing with Pachyderms

After our five days exploring Chiang Mai, it was time to get out into the countryside and go to camp; elephant camp, that is.  We spent two days at Baan Chang Elephant Park, learning (or attempting to learn) how to be mahouts, or elephant caretakers. 

We had seen plenty of elephants from a distance in Africa, but definitely had not come anywhere near close enough to feed, bathe, or ride them like we did at Baan Chang.  Asian elephants are actually a different species than the African elephants we had previously viewed from afar.  There are a variety of differences between the two species, but the most obvious is that Asian elephants are much smaller and only the males have tusks.

We started our time at elephant camp by changing into what would be our uniform for the next two days: incredibly trendy blue polyester mahout outfits.  Thus fashionably attired, we were ready for the first activity: feeding the elephants!  Elephants actually spend about 18 hours each day eating, so we were just there to provide them with their daily dose of treats in the form of bananas and sugarcane. 

Highly intelligent, as well as creatures of habit, all of the elephants knew that the arrival of minivans full of strangers meant it was time for their favorite foods.  They waited eagerly for the visitors carrying bunches of bananas and sticks of sugarcane, inquisitively reaching out their enormous trunks as we passed.  Some elephants were pickier than others, preferring sugarcane over bananas or refusing to eat green bananas entirely.  It took some time to get used to the elephants snatching the food from our hands with their trunks.  Not only does the proboscis contain up to 150,000 muscle fascicles, it handles food and objects in an amazingly adept manner!

Once we were more familiar and comfortable with these majestic creatures, it was time for our training to begin.  Our small group clustered around our guide to learn a series of commands, starting with non long, or “lie down.”  Having learned this basic command, we were ready to get up on the elephants and back off again.  Despite their smaller size and our vast experience riding horses, elephants are much larger.  Getting on even the smallest elephant was somewhat of a vertigo-inducing experience.

Having mastered mounting and dismounting, we quickly added a few other commands to our repertoire.  We now know the elephant commands for go, turn, and stop (bai, quay, and how) – we are practically fluent!  However, we are pretty confident that the elephants simply follow their trainers and completely disregard any orders from foreigners mispronouncing their instructions.

Regardless, we set off on an elephant ride around the camp’s perimeter.  We were each entrusted with our own elephant for the afternoon.  Several couples in the group had opted to share just one elephant, but Giorgio had insisted that we each get our own – how else could we have elephant races?  We clambered up onto their backs after instructing each of our elephants to non long and headed down the path.  Giorgio’s more experienced and larger elephant lead the way for Stephanie’s younger (and smaller) pachyderm.

Not long after the elephants had commenced plodding through the jungle and searching for tasty, leafy treats alongside the trail, a firecracker popped in the distance.  Although the older elephants in the group generally remained complacent, Stephanie’s elephant and a few others were not so calm, spooking and breaking into a run.  Staying in place while bareback on a spooked elephant is not quite the same as riding a galloping horse, but Stephanie held on until a mahout urgently instructed her to dismount.  Eventually, the entire group dismounted and gave the elephants a much-needed break.    

It turned out that there was a Buddhist funeral on one of the neighboring farms, accompanied by traditional fireworks.  Once our guide had confirmed that there would be no more fireworks that afternoon, we were back in the saddle (or back bareback on the elephants).  This time, Stephanie got to ride the biggest elephant in the group, who not only sported immense tusks, but would also be less prone to spooking in the event of further firecrackers.

In case any riders out there are wondering how elephant riding compares to horseback riding, we suggest you stick to horses.  Elephant necks and backs are not the most comfortable places to perch and they are also quite hairy!  And their hairs are quite bristly, constantly scratching through your clothes.  Who knew?

After their exertions, the elephants were more than ready for their daily bath.  We had seen plenty of elephant pool parties in Etosha, but this time we got to join in!  We both narrowly avoided having a foot accidentally crushed by one of the giant beasts in the water while vigorously scrubbing them down.  For the mahouts, being in the water with their elephants was second nature and they simply laughed at our concerns.  (Afterwards, we had our own bath time; elephants don’t have the same rules as humans about not pooping in the shower.)

After the day-trippers had left, we settled into full camp mode.  We shared stories over the campfire, roasted sticky rice in bamboo in lieu of marshmallows, and lit a few more wishing lanterns.  The whole time, we could hear the elephants rustling in the background amidst their massive piles of leaves and fruit – it was like we were back in Africa!

Armed with yet more sugarcane and bananas, we re-introduced ourselves to the elephant team the following morning.  Plus we got to meet the resident baby elephants, who looked just like Dumbo (although they were happily ensconced alongside their mothers).

We spent our final day with the elephants in the jungle.  Apparently, the elephants are not really supposed to be trekking through the jungle, which is owned by the government.

We trekked through mango fields, over a river, and up and down a few steep hills before arriving at a small clearing where the mahouts prepared a luxurious picnic of freshly grilled chicken and fried rice.  Meanwhile, our elephant friends were meant to be exploring the jungle on their own, where they would presumably find tons of tasty snacks.  Stephanie’s elephant was quite disgruntled by this plan, preferring to remain within sight of the group rather than exploring on her own.  The other elephants, except for one older male, eventually got tired of browsing independently and slowly made their way back to the campfire, sneaking up on us as stealthily as an animal weighing several tons can do.

Back in camp, it was already time for another bath.  Stephanie headed into the pond with her new friend, who turned out to be quite mischievous, spouting feces-water all over her multiple times. Giorgio and the other members of our group decided one time was enough and refused to get into the dirty water again.

Baan chang means “elephant home” in Thai.  They provide a home for 40+ rescued elephants that had previous careers as logging or show elephants.  They no longer put on shows for hordes of tourists or pull massive logs through Burmese forests.  However, we had some concerns about taking part in the Thai elephant tourism industry, which is known for its mistreatment of these majestic creatures.  Overall, we are happy with our decision to visit Baan Chang and learn more up close and personal with such amazing animals.  Living at Baan Chang seems to be a happier alternative to the elephants’ prior lives and we’ve determined that the ideal of roaming free through the jungle does not seem attainable in modern-day Southeast Asia.  Regardless, the welfare of the elephants here in Thailand is certainly something that we have seriously considered, both before and after our visit.

Following our two days of elephant camp, we embarked on a new adventure – a week of road tripping around northern Thailand!

#stephandgio

Chiang Mai: Lanterns and Fireworks… Everywhere!

After Christmas, we repeated the now-familiar route back from MSP to BKK.  Following a quick stopover in Bangkok (or an airport hotel in Bangkok), we were back on the road (or in the air) to the northern city of Chiang Mai.  We had five days to explore the ancient walled city and its environs.  We spent our time wandering through Chiang Mai’s elaborate temples, sampling its delicious street food, and puttering down the Mae Ping in an old-fashioned scorpion-tailed boat.

Because of the New Year, the temples were all beautifully decorated; we found multi-colored flags and intricate lanterns alongside the many golden Buddhas.  On New Year's Eve, thousands of twinkling candles were added to create an otherworldly and peaceful setting.

Our trip to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, a mountain outside the city crowned by a temple, was not quite so peaceful.  All the tuk tuks that had previously congregated outside of our hotel had disappeared, so we wandered the streets of the old city to try to bargain a fare with one of the city’s abundant red trucks, or songthaews.  One driver quoted us a fare of 1,000 baht each way – significantly more than the 50 – 100 baht promised by our guidebook and various websites.  We eventually banded together with another couple and bargained a reduced fare of 100 baht per person each way.

As our truck slowly made its way out of the city and up the mountain, we realized that we hadn’t been ripped off after all.  Absolutely everyone in the city (and possibly from all over Thailand) was spending January 2^nd visiting Doi Suthep.  (The temple is commonly referred to by this shortened name, although this is actually the name of the mountain it is located on.)  The hordes of tourists and locals created a massive traffic jam on the narrow and winding road ascending the mountain.

After inhaling a bit more exhaust than we would have cared to, we arrived at the mountaintop.  Along with a constant stream of visitors, we climbed the steps to the visit the temple above and take in the view of the city below.  Unlike most of the other visitors, we did not arrive with prayers or offerings for the Buddha, but it was certainly a unique experience to visit the mountain as locals carried out their New Year traditions.  Small children wearing traditional clothing were perched on the steps and vendors sold everything ranging from sandals and t-shirts to fruit and grilled snacks.

Doi Suthep dates back to 1383 and its founding is the focus of multiple legends.  A popular story tells the tale of a monk who, guided by a dream, found one of the Buddha's shoulder bones.  He presented it to the king who placed it on the back of a white elephant and then released both into the jungle.  The elephant proceeded to climb Doi Suthep, trumpeted three times and died.  The king interpreted this as a sign and ordered the construction of the temple.

Although the temples were lovely and a boat trip is always the perfect way to spend an afternoon, we were perhaps the most excited to try some of the city’s famous food (at least, Steph was).

Chiang Mai offers street food galore, as well as its signature dish: khao soi.  Having tried khao soi, a Burmese-style (or possibly Chinese) curry with both regular and fried noodles, at one of our favorite LES restaurants back in New York (Pig & Khao), we were eager to try the real thing in Chiang Mai.  Much internet research led us to Kao Soi Lam Duan Faham, a favorite of various online commenters plus one of the most famous Thai chefs in the US.  After braving a walk down a busy road without any sidewalks, we stumbled upon this unassuming restaurant.  There was an open-air kitchen, no English menu, no other western tourists, and really no one that spoke any English.  Regardless, a waitress eventually stopped by our table with bowls of the famous khao soi, which we finished immediately and quickly replaced with a second serving the next time she walked by.  We continued our city food tour by trying the “best” rotisserie chicken in the city and the “best” traditional northern Thai food, as well as anything sold on the street that happened to look intriguing.  We highly recommend this approach to touring Chiang Mai and are wondering why we’ve never found garlic-stuffed rotisserie chicken anywhere else – it’s delicious!

Of course, we didn’t spend all of our time peacefully exploring the city and stuffing our faces.  Steph continued her never-ending quest to test Gio’s fear of heights, insisting that we spend a long afternoon zip-lining through the jungle.  Despite his initial trepidation, by the end of the day, he was asking why we hadn’t done the longer tour.  Next up, skydiving?

We don’t have many photos of our adventures because Giorgio insists that we found the only Asian in the world that is a bad at taking photographs.  However, he did cobble what we had into these gifs that he’s pretty excited about!

New Year’s Eve proved to be the highlight of our stay in Chiang Mai.  The streets leading to Tha Phae Gate, as well as the surrounding square, turned into a giant block party filled with street food, music, fireworks (professional and otherwise), and lanterns.  Wishing lanterns are hot air balloons made of paper, and are traditionally lit throughout Asia during various festivals.  In Chiang Mai, the lanterns are released into the night sky accompanied by the wishes inscribed on their sides; the lanterns also symbolize the lighters’ problems and worries floating away.  

We practiced lighting a lantern the night before (December 30) so that we would be experts by NYE.  Giorgio, who is unwisely not at all afraid of fire, lit as many as possible throughout the two nights.

We joined the tourists and locals celebrating in the streets.  We set our own lanterns aloft with our wishes and watched thousands of others do the same.

Of course, some people weren’t so lucky (or are not lantern lighting experts like Giorgio), and their lanterns got tangled in the power lines or crashed into the river.  It’s a wonder nothing was set on fire, particularly since a few parties had also procured their own fireworks from the bazaar to help ring in the New Year.

Although the streets were filled with revelers, nothing approached the chaos of Times Square on December 31.  Along with the official fireworks and the multitudes of lanterns, the sky was ablaze.

We wish everyone a wonderful 2015!

#stephandgio